Welcome to another collab edition with my dear friend Resa McConaghy, the costume designer extraordinaire who runs not just one, but two amazing blogs: Graffiti Lux Art and More and Art Gowns, which showcases her amazing designs and sketches, such as this one.
We had collaborated earlier this year on the Emmy nominations and snubs, but this time we wanted to do a deep dive on the outstanding costume design for HBO’s series The Penguin. It was rightly nominated for an Emmy for Outstanding Contemporary Costumes For A Limited Or Anthology Series Or Movie. The nomination was for costume designer Helen Huang. I sure hope she wins in this category; we are both rooting for this series!
Resa and I are huge fans of the series. Though it’s been on my radar and I love the character when it appeared in The Batman, somehow I didn’t watch the series until Resa’s high praise for it finally nudged me to watch it last July. If you haven’t seen it yet, I highly recommend this excellent and gripping series. You don’t even have to be a fan of Batman stories or even a superhero fan to appreciate it, as Resa would attest.
The costume design is especially amazing, so I thought it’d be fun to ask Resa, as an expert in the industry and an Emmy voter, about what makes a project award-worthy and why the costumes for The Penguin are so special. Bonus: We get some insights from her own experience when she worked as a costume designer in various series and TV movies.
So here goes!
Ruth: I’d LOVE to get your professional insights about the costumes and what makes them award-worthy. I feel like costumes, just like set design/music, etc, should be an extension of storytelling. That means the clothes should communicate something about the character, so it goes beyond what looks pretty/trendy.
As we both admire the costume design of the Penguin, please share your thoughts on some of your favorite outfits from the series. Feel free to share your thoughts on the costumes of the other nominated series, too!
Resa – Award-worthy Costumes are all you mention, and there is a lot of work to get them there. To me, there is no Emmy-nominated costume show this year that holds a candle to The Penguin. Although the costume design in Andor is excellent as well, I did not have to judge the 2 shows against each other, as they are in different categories.
Here are the key elements that contribute to an amazing costume design:
1 – Articulation of the Character.
Is the person young or old? Perhaps it is a young person who is old at heart, or an old person who is young at heart? An old person in a wheelchair, with no say in what they wear, tended to by a caregiver – Is it good care or mean care? Is the character rich, poor, or middle class? What is their job/career? Are they an angry person or kind-hearted? Are they impeccable or a slob?
In The Penguin, Sofia Falcone (Cristin Milioti) is a mobster, a criminal. I like the way her costumes are on the bad girl side. They look like money and trash all at once.
Sofia has many ulterior motives and knows how to dress for the occasion.
Ruth: I’m a bit obsessed with this simple little black dress adorned with a flowing red sash or scarf, representing a trail of blood. This ensemble emerges following her ruthless deed, signifying her evolution into a fearsome “Gigante” antagonist. The red detail serves as a potent and psychologically impactful feature of the outfit. I love how Huang creates such gorgeous, elegant clothes for Sofia with a streak of rebellion.
The Penguin (Colin Farrell) has never looked so natty. Although his look has been articulated many times before, never has the character had as much human texture. It drives me nuts that superheroes or supervillains never change outfits (said like a designer). It keeps them on the page of the comic book, which is admittedly important in most cases. Here, the Penguin’s wardrobe changes; situation and money-dependent.
From a regular gangster on the block, …
To a successful gangster on the block,
To a city-wide mobster and criminal dignitary. His wardrobe is so enticing…
I kind of got a crush on this one…
The Penguin’s mother, Francis Cobb (Deirdre O’Connell), has a deteriorating mental health situation. She confuses her present with memories from the past. Yet, sometimes the memory is accurate.
Designer Huang handled this beautifully with an at-home wardrobe that is a bit eccentric, with faded shades of past beauty. The visions from the past and present day are accentuated with her flair for glamor.
Colin Farrell’s Oz dancing with his girlfriend Eve (Carmen Ejogo)
2 – Time Period/Era
Contemporary wardrobes can be the most challenging to manage. Everybody is an expert when it comes to fashion. Also, with technology, producers can now travel to the shops with you. Actors can be more concerned with how they look. This can all be at the expense of the characters’ articulation. Time periods are easier, as the designer is the most educated on that era and needs to build and/or rent wardrobes. The designer can infuse a lot of integrity into the costumes and enrich the show.
However, character articulation remains important. In the end, we are not making a catalogue. We are making a movie. I like the costumes in the show Bridgerton, but in terms of Best Period costumes, I don’t buy it. Just like I don’t understand how The Bear is a comedy, Bridgerton is more of a fantasy. Wolf Hall costumes are phenomenal. It is truly a painting from the 1500s. 1929 also seems true to the time.
3- Actors’ Input About Their Character.
Not all actors have clothing thoughts about their character. They may have no defined ideas, other than he wears suits, or she’s a jeans kind of girl. They rely on the professional, the costume designer. They may have comfort or health requirements. They may just want to look good, no matter what you put them in, requesting specific colours and specific designer brands. Some have very defined ideas of what their character should look like. Others have a sense of what they should look like, but rely on the designer to flesh that out with them… a team effort.
Ruth: I read in an interview with Helen Huang about working with Colin Farrell. She said that he didn’t want Oz’s outfits to come off as too costumey, but he definitely wanted him to have a distinct vibe. The deliberate and elaborate way he dresses suggests that Oz is trying to move up in social circles and wants to make a good impression.
4- The Directors’ Intended Filmatic Look.
Is it shot in the dark, and wants colour pops? Or is it dark, and he/she wants the characters dark, but somehow we still have to see them. The Penguin again is a great example.
Is there a colour palette? Are the interiors well-lit, harshly lit, or dim? What are the wall colours, or will there be patterned walls? For the last 2 questions, I’m usually working with the director and the Production Designer.
Often the director has specific requests for certain characters, such as a character palette, degree of garment breakdown down or what they should wear for stunts, i.e., when they get shot, pushed off the building, get beaten up, etc. One director, on a period film I worked on, was shooting colour, but wanted an almost sepia tone look, old-fashioned photography as much as possible. To achieve this, there was to be NO BLUE in the clothes, sets, and props. Only natural blue, like the sky, was allowed. It worked!
5 – The DOP’s Photographic Requirements
For the costumes to look how a designer wants them to look, best to listen to what the DOP needs, from colour, to texture, to pattern. Do the whites need to be tekked down? Just for the night? Day? What patterns & textures will strobe? What colours will blood & other important stains show best on? How much sparkle, sequin beads, etc, are needed to read? Many questions will be answered in the camera tests. However, questions come up as the shooting is in progress. For a quick last-minute test, I have always found DOPs willing to put something in front of the camera just after a shot is in the can, and before they move the camera. Or it could happen after they move, light, block, and are waiting for the actors. Although it may require patience to wait on set.
6 – The Extras.
It is easy to fluff the extras off on assistants. Of course the help is needed, especially on a period film where you would have a dedicated Extras Coordinator. Nonetheless, it is important to visit the Extras Holding and check the costumes before they head to set. I have corrected many costumes in holding. Also, it’s a good idea to be on set when the extras are being placed. ADs are not thinking about how an extra’s costume looks next to the leading lady, but I am.
Wrapping up
Nothing sticks out, unless it is supposed to.
Above all, filmmaking is a team effort. When all of the aforementioned elements come together, you see and feel it on the screen. The character is complete within itself, and within the film.
Photos from The Penguin are courtesy of DC Studios + Warner Bros. Television
— &&& —
Resa’s Emmy Picks for Best Costumes
- Contemporary – Emily in Paris
- Period – Wolf Hall
- Sci-Fi/Fantasy- Andor
- Movie/Anthology/Limited Series – The Penguin
FLIXCHATTER FILM BLOG 
Dear Ruth, thank you for this opportunity to collaborate with you again!
The article looks fabulous.
Honestly, I hardly bother with other film reviews any more. Yours, and your Guest Reviews are my main go to.
Okay, I’ll reblog late tomorrow, or in the wee hours on Tuesday!
I’ll be back! xoxoxoxo
Resa!!! Massive THANK YOU for collaborating w/ me on this. I LOVE your comments and insights about costume design. I’ve always thought that clothes that characters wear are essential to storytelling and you have confirmed it!
THANKS for being such a loyal reader to FlixChatter, I’m honored!! Love you bunches!!!
Thank you Ruth! Yes, the wardrobe is a telling feature of a character. I was thrilled to hear that Helen had worked closely with Colin, and that she had delivered the costumes he wanted – an articulated wardrobe as opposed to a “Penguin Costume”. As you can see, I picked right up on that. Kudos to Helen ad Colin on a brilliant wardrobe collab!
FlixChatter is a fab blog!
Love you bunches too! xoxoxo
Dear Ruth and Resa, it’s fascinating to learn how costume design pulls these great characters together and the importance of behind the scene design activity. Thank you for taking us into the costume world that lives beyond our sight but burst forward on the screen. Penguin was a design work of art , I agree. Thanks once again for this amazing post. I can imagine the hustle and bustle of pulling all of these scenes together by means costume design. Designers play such an incredible role in making a film/story amazing.
xoxoxoxo
Dear Holly,
Many thanks for your lovely comment! It’s always fun to do a post with Ruth about the film industry, which we adore.
Yes, the hustle and bustle is a truth. It’s that hungry camera. Once it starts rolling, it’s like feeding a hungry bear. Every hour can mean a new meal of sets, wardrobe, make-up props and more.
Then suddenly, the shot order is changed, the schedule rewritten. The meal that you just prepared for the camera bear is off, and you haven’t shopped for the new one, yet. FUN?!?! (actually, sort of)
Anyway, I adore the costumes in The Penguin, and I hope Helen, the designer, wins!
xoxoxoxoxo
Hi Holly! Thanks for your lovely comment, I would love to be a fly on the wall when they were making these stunning costumes!
Wouldn’t it be fun ? I’d like to be a fly on the wall when Resa is designing gowns!!
You and me both! Maybe we should arrange that and crash Resa’s creative development time, mwahaha!
This is awesome. I gotta remind myself to watch that show. Plus, the costumes look great.
It really is fabulous. I might not have given The Penguin a watch, but honest voting requires honest watching. This limited series (although now they are considering a regular series) is a refreshed and exciting take.
Hey Steven! You really should watch The Penguin, everything about it is great… the costumes for sure, but so are the production design, cinematography, music, and of course the script and acting!
Another Fab Collab😎 Penguin sounds like a sure bet with you two in agreement. I’ve seen some. The little black dress with the simple red accent scarf is brilliant🖤🧣
It blew me away. I was expecting the same old, but it really is the same new!
Thank you!! It’s mostly Resa’s brilliance in this post. Yeah that LBD with the red scarf is simply phenomenal, perhaps one of the most memorable pieces of costume I’ve seen on TV this year.
Here’s to hoping Huang and the Penguin art department get love they deserve!🖤🧣 (Woah I’m typing this on reverse color mode on my laptop. And had to find the black heart and red scard emojis but they were white and blue (green)
A fantastic and insightful read. I am biased however as Resa has generously advised and helped me with a costume I was building. But this post took me back to my time at Performing Arts College and had to costume myself as Mr Emmanuelli, the music teacher in “Once a Catholic”. It was amazing how much difference putting a tweed jacket with kidskin elbow patches on, dusting my hair with chalk dust (worked well) and picking out a gnarly wooden walking stick made to my performance – I totally zoned out of my own self and into Emmanuelli. So I am grateful to costumes and the designers behind them.
(I even got a mention in the local theatre column in my town’s newspaper!) Thanks to both of you.
Hello Tyeth!
Great to see you here.
Thank you for you lovely words about the article, and me. Your past experience makes your comment all the nicer.
It was great fun doing this with Ruth. You are more than welcome!
This is a good read! Thanks for your insights into the behind the scenes stuff that most movie fans don’t know much about, Resa.
I wish I have a costume designer for my day to day work in the corporate world. I make videos for a tech company but I’m also the person that needs to tell our “talents” on what to wear and what not to wear when they’re going to be on camera. Our company don’t have budget for makeup artists and costume designers, yet. Lol!
Hello Ted,
Thanks for your cool comment!
It’s terrific that you do videos for a tech company. I did a lot of “industrial” videos when I started out, and I did them all for free.
I did it to build my portfolio as a designer. Those along with freebies I did for the Film Centre, aspiring directors and early no budget rock videos, led to shorts, commercials and low budget film. Then Showtime found me. It was an amazing company to work for!
Perhaps you could find some young aspiring designers that need to build portfolio? Maybe try a film school, or an art college?
“Yet”… as you said before the Lol, is a great energy. One thing leads to another. One day “yet” will be “in the old days”!
Reblog set for tomorrow AM!
Woo hoo! Thank you, Resa!! 😘🙌🏽🧡
xoxoxoxo
It’s so interesting to go behind the scenes a bit with what a costume designer looks for and does!
There were so many excellent series this year. I haven’t seen The Penguin, and we don’t have HBO, so most likely I won’t. 😊
Thank you for popping over here, reading and commenting, Merril!
It is an interesting career area, an applied art. Although, the hours & stress are killer.
The Penguin was a show that snuck up on me. I’m not a big fan of the super hero comic book genre shows. I thought I’d have to grind through the required episodes to vote, but 15 minutes in I was hooked.
It’s stand alone and stand out.
You’re welcome, Resa. It’s fun learning about different careers, and you definitely view movies and shows from a unique angle.
I’m glad you ended-up enjoying the show.
I haven’t seen the series, and many of these observations would fly past my conscious awareness, but I enjoyed this post. I like knowing how things work, and the information shared here is fascinating. Thanks Ruth and Resa!
Welcome and thanks Dan!
I’m so pleased you popped over here. The best films are the ones that you just like, they take you along with the story. Sometimes having worked in the biz ruins shows for me. I can’t stop seeing mistakes, or thinking on production values.
The best thing about The Penguin was that it swept me into the story, and I went with it. It was after the fact that I thought about what an amazing production it was.
Thanks Dan for the comment, this show is truly extraordinary!
Hey Resa, I was thinking about whether having worked in the biz ruins shows for you, as you’d notice all the mistakes and the quality of the production. So it’s a testament to The Penguin that it passes your keen eye and there are things here that you admired!
You hit the nail on the head Ruth.
Some shows are so technically annoying, I just stop watching.
However, there are some budget movies, that I forgive and watch, because I see the good try, in spite of the budget; and the script and/or acting is just so darn good!
Much like Dan, my costume awareness is pretty low, but I enjoyed learning about the aspects of costume design and how it integrates with film making. Clearly, Resa knows film and costume. Nice interview Ruth.
Thanks for popping over, Brad!
I’m glad this article was entertaining, and informative. It’s fun to chat with Ruth once EMMY voting is done, and we can speculate before the big day.
A terrific discussion Risa and Ruth. I haven’t seen the series but was fascinated with your thoughts behind the designs.
Thank you dear John!
It’s so fab that you came over and read the article. I truly appreciate it! 🐂
Always fun to follow you around, Resa. 😊X
A fascinating post, Ruth and Resa, filled with insider knowledge. “The Penguin” costumes do really “pop.” (Which reminds me of a children’s book titled “Mr. Popper’s Penguins,” but I digress… 🙂 )
Hello Dave!
Thanks for checking out this article. Ruth is so generous to have me on her blog. Of course we do love chatting about the industry in general, all the time.
“Mr. Popper’s Penguins,” LOL! 😂
It was a pleasure to read, Resa!
Thank you!
You’re welcome, Resa! 🙂
Hey there Dave!! Yeah, it’s always a treat to learn from Resa about her insider insights. Ahahaha, this one is much darker than Mr. Popper’s Penguins, which I believe has a movie adaptation w/ Jim Carrey that I haven’t seen.
Thank you, Ruth! I had forgotten that there was a movie version of that book! I haven’t seen the film, either. Yes, the book was relatively lighthearted, if I’m remembering correctly.
Thanks for the insight, Resa! It is very interesting. I’ll admit that I haven’t seen any of the shows (I do not watch TV. Ever.) but it still fascinates me. Actually, I may break down and watch Andor since it is Star Wars for adults… Penguin? Hmm, maybe.
Thanks for popping over here and reading, Trent!
I’m glad you found some interest in the article. It is a creative process, and I know that is intriguing to you.
Yes, Andor! I was pleasantly surprised (Ruth did some fab reviews for it), as I am not into Star Wars. The costumes are great!
I know – The Penguin…soooo Batman, but it is not! It is a departure on so many levels. I would have never watched it, but for EMMY voting. It is stand alone all the way.
Again, thanks for checking out this article!
Thank you Ruth and Resa for the questions that allowed for describing the considerations a costume designer needs to explore with the team making a film. Very thoughtful interview.
You are welcome Cheyenne! It was a fun interview with Ruth.
Thank you for this lovely comment!
This is such an interesting and insightful post. Tess’s commentary about the elements of a costume design including color, texture and accessories make perfect sense. Ensuring the costumes don’t clash with watch other and the setting also makes sense. It’s like creating a painting, choosing the frame and placing it on a wall.
Thanks Robbie!
You’re right! Making a film is like painting a picture; a picture that moves and changes.
Part of that is also the continuity, especially if stunts are involved. As shooting is not sequential, one is always picking it up from somewhere in the story line. Were the sleeves rolled, how many buttons were undone, was the shirt torn, how much blood was on the shirt at that point, was his jacket off or on, etc.?
A most fascinating process, Resa, and certainly an artistic challenge. I think I would have enjoyed costume design.
Robbie, I know you would have enjoyed costume design!
You are so creative. It is another place to utilize our creative abilities. ❦🌹
Yes, it is 🌷
Hi Robbie!! Yeah, it’s always fun learning about the costumes and set pieces of a show like this that is fantastical but also grounded. Your analogy of a painting is spot on!
🙏💛
This is a fabulous post, you two! Thanks for including so many pictures. The costumes really are a treat. (I’m not familiar with the series as I don’t have HBO… or any of the main ones.) Coincidentally, I just watched a video about the costumes in the Wednesday series. (Unfortunately, whoever runs that… I don’t have it either.) I would love to have seen a much deeper dive with those costumes. Well done. Hugs.
Thank you, Teagan!
It’s fab collabing with Ruth.
Yes, Wednesday. Not something I watch regularly, but it was up for best contemporary costumes about 2 years ago. The show got my vote!
Thank you for popping over, Tegan! It means a lot to me. Hugs!
These costumes really do enhance the characters. 🤗
💞
Hi Teagan! All the pics are picked by Resa so yeah they’re fabulous! I just love that little black dress w/ the red scarf; just so perfect for that scene.
Hi, Ruth. Mine is the red coat with the big faux fur collar as a mini dress. 🤗
Hi Teagan! Yeah that red coat worn as a mini dress is fabulous indeed and definitely evokes elegant mafioso, ahah.
This was a fascinating discussion, and I learned a lot about costuming that I had no idea about. I just see it, sort of oblivious. To me, really good costumes seem to merge with the character to become part of the film experience. I don’t see the “mechanics,” sort of like how a reader doesn’t see the mechanics behind a story. The photos were an excellent example of design choices and demonstrated Resa’s points wonderfully. Wow. I haven’t seen Penguin and suspect it will be a whole different experience now. Great post, Resa and Ruth. That was fun.
Many thank you’s Diana!
Yes, all the production values/technicals should “merge” as you say, and not take over the film.
Of course, if it was a film about say, Dior, and there was a fashion show within the movie, for that one scene the clothing designs should take over, to a point. All production values at that point could be heightened as well to push the point: music, lighting, staging, make-up, photography…
Yes, The Penguin is a departure from the Batman thing, to begin with. So between that alone and reading this article, it will be a unique experience.
So happy you popped over! YAY!!!!!
It’s kind of the same thing with writing a book – everything should merge and blend so that the viewer/reader becomes immersed in the reality of the story – and all the technical choices and craft fade away.
But the inside peek is so much fun!
Thank you, Diana! … it was an energy demanding career, and I loved it.
Dear Ruth and Resa, this was so fascinating that I felt like I just attended an online classroom on costuming. I haven’t seen The Penguin either, but now it’s great to have some behind-the-scenes knowledge. I enjoyed the commentary about The Penguin’s costumes and how they transformed from one to the another, very enticing, I agree. Resa, thanks for sharing your expertise! I know how busy you’ve been. And thanks to you both for this insightful post. 💜
Thank you Lauren for your sweet comment! I’m so grateful that Resa is so generous in taking time from her busy schedule to collab with me. Her insights of the industry, especially something as fun as fashion, is always so riveting. Thanks for reading!
My pleasure, Ruth! Resa is amazing, and you two created a wonderful collaboration!
Thank you for this lovely comment, Lauren!
LOL, a classroom on costuming!
Well, it’s my pleasure to share all I know. I managed to mentor 2 designers into the industry. I do believe in giving back.
I truly appreciate you popping over, reading and commenting!
xoxoxoxo
You’re so welcome, Resa, and this was fabulous! You’re amazing with all your talent and all you do! xoxoxo
Thanks Lauren!
It’s so cool that I got mixed up with a lot of writers here on WP. I love the dichotomy!
I find it inspiring!
You’re so welcome, Resa, and I think it’s wonderful! You inspire! 💝 xoxo
xoxoxo
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The Penguin was brilliant in so many ways, including the costumes. I recall looking at Sofia and thinking her outfits all were so fitting to her personality. That’s not easy to do! I also love that Resa mentions Emily in Paris, a show I watched as much for the clothing as the romance. Wonderful conversation here, you two!
What a read this is. Absolutely amazing. You’ve both also quite sold me on The Penguin, there you go.
Hi Shennane! Thanks for your lovely comment. Glad we sold you on The Penguin. Even if you’re not into superhero stuff like Resa, I think you’d appreciate the story, esp. the female-driven aspect w/ Sofia’s character. And the costumes are divine of course!
Hi Ruth, Oh you have sold me on the Penguin, Truly this is a fabulous post, so thank you and Resa again x