The last time I caught Angelina Jolie on screen was in Maria, where she played the iconic opera singer Maria Callas. Now, she’s taking on a fictional role as Maxine Walker, a character that shares quite a few personal similarities with Jolie herself. Maxine is an American filmmaker, and Jolie has directed several films; the character is dealing with a tough divorce, like she recently did; plus, Jolie’s mother, Marcheline Bertrand, passed away from breast cancer.
Though Jolie can speak French since her mom was French-Canadian, she took intense lessons to nail the French dialogue for her character. The movie takes place during Paris Fashion Week. Despite the title and setting, the film isn’t really about fashion. Writer/director Alice Winocour has said in her press tour that fashion serves as a mirror of the world of appearances. Couture peels back the grueling work that goes on behind the glamorous, polished images we see in fashion magazines, showcasing the women who exist behind that seemingly flawless facade.
The word “couture” translates to “stitches,” and Winocour stitched together a narrative about three women from diverse backgrounds whose paths cross during Fashion Week. Besides Maxine, we’ve got Ada (Anyier Anei) and Angèle (Ella Rumpf). Ada is a fresh-faced, South Sudanese model attempting to launch her fashion career despite initially wanting to study pharmacy, and Angèle is a makeup artist working in the shadows of the catwalks, quietly dreaming of becoming a writer. I was hoping that these three women would have more screen time together, but that isn’t the case. There is, however, a profoundly moving scene between Jolie and Rumpf towards the end.
The fashion scenes come across as authentic since Winocour teamed up with Chanel, captured beautifully by French cinematographer André Chemetoff. This film made history by being the first feature ever allowed to film inside the House of Chanel’s private tailoring workshops and showrooms in Paris. The cancer plot hits close to home since Jolie had a preventative double mastectomy back in 2013 to lower her breast cancer risk, and I recently found out that Winocour is also a breast cancer survivor.
The scene where Maxine gets her diagnosis from a doctor in Paris (Vincent Lindon) is harrowing, but her shocked reaction feels real. As a working woman, she attempts to negotiate her treatment around her schedule, but we know that the disease won’t exactly wait for a convenient time. It’s one of the most genuinely vulnerable performances I’ve seen from Jolie, which is a nice change because she often plays characters with such formidable strength that it’s borderline caricature (like Lara Croft in the Tomb Raider films and the superhero Thena in Eternals).
Jolie has a sexy chemistry with Louis Garrel‘s Anton, the cinematographer for her project. Their professional collaboration takes a romantic turn when Maxine unexpectedly makes a move on him. Anton is a sympathetic character, but he’s so thinly written that Garrel is a bit wasted in this role. While their relationship starts with an enticing spark, it’s not deep enough to make it a meaningful part of the story.
Meanwhile, the journey of young Ada strips away the glamor of being a fashion model. Plucked out of obscurity when she’s picked as the lead model for Maxine’s extravagant video for a high-profile fashion event, she finds it tough to fit in a new country. You can really feel her sense of isolation from the cliquish group of models, but she keeps pushing through and even forms an unexpected bond with a Ukrainian model who initially brushed her off. Interestingly, Jolie portrayed a real-life model, Gia Carangi, early in her career in Gia in 1998, but that’s a far more tragic film than this one.
I really connected with Angèle’s story. I’ve seen Rumpf in Tokyo Vice, but this is the first time I’ve seen her in a film role. Angèle is overworked and underappreciated, hopping from one gig to another while trying to squeeze in some time to write. She can barely manage a quick virtual call with a script reader between her gigs. Angèle truly lives up to her name, as her small acts of kindness make a difference in others’ lives, like quietly slipping menstrual products into a model’s bag or offering some encouraging words when someone really needs it.
Winocour’s films often delve into the narratives of women, showcasing their challenges and fortitude. I haven’t seen her Oscar-nominated film Mustang from 2015 yet, but I did enjoy the lesser-known Proxima, featuring Eva Green as an astronaut. What stands out the most is how Winocour contrasts the beauty and allure of the fashion world with the harsh realities of illness and death. The realm of haute couture serves as an astute metaphor for how beauty is so fleeting. The stunning set pieces, production design, and costumes depicting a mythical forest in Maxine’s video are truly breathtaking. However, all the hard work that took weeks to assemble is washed away in just minutes by a sudden downpour during the outdoor performance.
Angèle’s voiceover amidst the show’s chaos really hits the heart of the film: “They had to be fleeting images, bodies without words, but I knew they all wanted to scream one day, like me.” She reads excerpts from her writing, contemplating her journey through the brutal fashion world and her desire to break free from the glitz for a different life.
Although the film isn’t flawless, there are many aspects to admire. The themes of female solidarity, empathy, and resilience shine through the glamorous fashion scene. I believe that those who have faced a tough health diagnosis or know someone who has can truly relate to this story. I appreciate the message that cancer isn’t just a death sentence; it’s a moment to face the fragility of life and can help us cherish our limited time on this planet.
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This is going to be at my local multiplex but I don’t think I’m going to see it. I’m just not enthusiastic go to the movies. I’ve been more distracted by the World Cup as I have been writing daily summaries on my Letterboxd account.
I’m not much into sports, though I’ve been watching quite a bit of TV shows as well as movies. Which team(s) are you rooting for at this year’s World Cup?
Right now, my favorites are Croatia, Argentina, France, and Germany. My long shot picks are: USA, Japan, and Morocco. My big dark horse right now is Cape Verde. What they did in their 1st World Cup by tying Spain, Uruguay (worst team this year), and Saudi Arabia and make it to the knockout stage is impressive.
Interesting reviews as always. I have never heard of the movie “Couture” before but your review has given me a strong reason to check it out. I have always been a huge fan of Angelina Jolie and regard her to be one of the finest actresses of all-time. She is an extraordinary actress that has always had abilities to elevate every movie she is in (even when its bad) through her sheer presence. I love all her movies but “Mr. & Mrs. Smith” is my personal favourite. “Couture” seems to be a great showcase for the actress. As a huge fan of the actress, I have a feeling I will enjoy this movie. I will definitely check it out once it hits streaming.
Here’s my thoughts on “Mr. & Mrs. Smith”:
Mr. And Mrs. Smith was fun when I saw it in the theaters two decades ago. Crazy that it’s the movie that brought Jolie and Pitt together and now they’re bitter enemies. I don’t think Jolie is interested in that type of action movie anymore, but I like her performance here, it shows her vulnerability, and the story feels personal. I think many fashion-centric films tend to be shallow but I find this one has more depth to it.
I haven’t seen Angelina Jolie in anything since The Eternals. I don’t know what’s going behind the scenes but she seems to be pulling back in her career and not appearing in that many movies in this decade. I saw the trailer of this one a while back, it looks interesting. I’ll keep an eye out for it.
I think she’s more focused on her family since the bitter divorce, but she still commands the screen. I’m glad she’s doing more personal dramas these days, and this is one of my favorite roles of hers. You saw Tokyo Vice too, right? You’ll likely remember the actress playing one of the hostess, Paulina. in a prominent role here.
Yes, this movie sounds intriguing to me. However, in all honesty, it’s the peek into Chanel’s studio, the wardrobe, hair and make-up that are enticing me as much as the story.
Thanks for this wonderful and thorough review, Ruth! I appreciate it.
I have to wonder if the RAIN ruining the collection scene is a steal from the real life story of Anne Lowe Cole who designed and made Jacqueline Kennedy’s wedding dress, as well as the entire bridal party.
The day before the wedding, pipes burst in the work room and the collection was ruined. A team of seamstresses and Anne, worked all day and night to remake the clothes, in time for the wedding.
It is an incredible tale, as is the story of Anne Cole’s life. (Should be a movie.. I was approached years ago, but it has never come to fruition)
Okay, thanks again!
𝔛𝕺 xoxoxoxoxo 𝔛𝕺
I thought of you when I was watching this, Resa! Yeah, I bet the costumes, set pieces, a look inside Chanel’s showrooms, etc. would be as intriguing for you. I’m glad that this film is more than just style over substance, though. I like the intersecting storylines of the three women. Jolie has the star power, but the other two actresses were good as well. You’ll likely recognize the actress playing Paulina in Tokyo Vice.
OH I’m not familiar with Anne Cole’s story. Wow, sounds like it’s worth telling as a docudrama or movie. That’s incredible that she and her team worked all day to remake everything!! I’m going to read more about that now. Thanks!!
🧵🪡🧶✂️-ˋˏ✃ 𓍯 ༝˚ ༝⚉ ⋆.𐙚 ̊ 𓍯𓂃🧵🪡👗
Yes, I like the T.Vice Paulina character. It sounds like a fab movie, all in all.
Do read up about Anne Cole. She was not credited with the gown & wedding party until the 1980’s, as she was black. Her story growing up is stellar. Wow.. from under her grandmother’s sewing table who had been a slave who could sew so well she sewed for all the Florida gentry, to the Couture Houses on 7th Avenue in NYC.
She designed many famous gowns… like the one for Claudette Colbert when she won the Oscar for best Actress in 1934.
So, sew much more.
Crazy! It must be made into a movie!!!!
XOXO💃🏽🌟 ~❦❦🎭❦❦~ 🌟💃🏽XOXO
Oh wow, she was not credited even after ALL of the incredible work she’s done??! What a travesty that racism still plagued the 50s… you would think a Democratic president and his would-be bride would be better than to succumb to racial discrimination and the elitist culture of the Jim Crow era. Heh, that is very disappointing. I just read that she already passed away when she finally received the credits she deserved.
Perhaps you could dedicate a post to her? Unless you’ve done that already and I missed it? In any case, yes her story should be made into a movie!! She looks amazing, too, based on this photo, I could see Taraji P. Henson portray her on screen!
♥❦❧💃XOXOXOXO💃♥❦❧
It is very disappointing. I have thought of doing a post one her, and I might.
I just wish there was a display I could take pics from.
I will check out the pic, and see!
~xoxoxo❤️🌹💙xoxoxo~
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